The Errant Æsthete

Lady Macbeth, like so many opera folk, lifts a glass in Verdi’s show about her ineptly murderous husband. The cast of Puccini’s “La Rondine” spends the second act boozing it up.

What about you? Get into the tragedy, drama and hedonistic pleasures of the San Francisco Opera, where both works are now in repertoire, but with far more than most opera lovers could expect — an uncompromising choice of drinking and dining options in the area around the opulent War Memorial Opera House.

A table at Jardiniere, just behind the house, means a long meal (allow two hours) but a short walk to see diva Angela Gheorghiu as Puccini’s aging party girl Magda or Thomas Hampson as the jumped-up thane.

It’s one of several eateries near the home of the Bay Area’s opera and ballet companies that allow ticket holders a chance to eat well and make the curtain. Jardiniere’s plush two- level space features exposed brick walls, mahogany columns and a glass domed ceiling with sparkling lights.

We had a good risotto ($25) consisting of basil leaves, sweet corn kernels, heirloom tomatoes and crisp diced zucchini, all ringed by white wine foam. A rib-eye steak ($40), just shy of medium rare, was served with garlicky bone marrow gremolata and red wine sauce. The sliced duck breast ($36) presented crisp skin, pink meat and an accompaniment of sweet fig, onion sauce and olives. The wine list was extensive, if not for bargain- hunters. Regional selections include Saintsbury chardonnay ($10 a glass) from Carneros, California, and Five Vintners cabernet sauvignon ($14 a glass) from neighboring Napa Valley.

Jardiniere is at 300 Grove St., at Franklin. Information: +1-415-861-5555; http://www.jardiniere.com .

Sexy Bistro

Absinthe’s deep burgundy rooms, thick drapes and plush velvet would appeal to femme fatale Magda and her French playmates. The Opera’s general director, David Gockley, praises its “potent, perfectly made margaritas.”

The menu offers a range of California produce: Celery-root soup ($8) was drizzled with mustard oil and a pink beet essence; roasted peppers and heirloom tomatoes, topped with burrata cheese and arugula ($14); Dungeness crabs, chilled or sauteed in butter. Raw scallops sitting on a pea puree were crowned with orange flying-fish roe dotted with a crunchy rosemary salt ($14).

Bistro classics include braised beef cheeks with mashed potatoes and turnips ($26), grilled rib-eye steak frites ($29) and a pan-roasted trout with squash and onions ($24).

A shot of its namesake intense, green-colored spirit, Lucid absinthe, is $13. Or try a classic libation such as the popular Ginger Rogers ($8) — made with gin, fresh mint, ginger syrup and lemon juice, topped with ginger ale.

Absinthe Brasserie and Bar is at 398 Hayes St., at Gough. Information: +1-415-551-1590; http://www.absinthe.com .

Wide-Open Grill

Zuni Cafe’s open kitchen is the heart of its triangular, brick-walled space. From the wood-burning oven, try delightful thin-crust pizzas laden with mozzarella, fennel sausage and tomatoes ($12.50) or the roast chicken for two ($41), brined overnight before an hour of cooking.

The restaurant’s eco-friendly produce includes a delicate lettuce salad with cucumbers and sweet beets of red and gold ($8), or a robust tomato soup with a dollop of ricotta ($8.25).

A fillet of grilled salmon ($21) was served with a frisee salad, potatoes and a hard-boiled egg; a freshly ground burger of grass-fed beef ($13.50) came with Gorgonzola on crisp grilled focaccia.

Zuni Cafe is at 1658 Market St. Information: +1-415-552 2522; http://www.zunicafe.com .

Vegetarian Hell

Meat, all you can eat, at Espetus Churrascaria. Flash a sign that’s green on one side, red on the other, to let the servers know when to start and stop. Give the “go” signal and the parade of hunks begins: roasted meat skewered on large knives, served and carved by men dressed as gauchos in sturdy boots and neck wear.

Selections include sirloin, herb-marinated chicken and its tiny hearts, pork loin, sausage and ribs, lamb and shrimp, all roasted over an open fire. For a balanced diet, more than a dozen salads, vegetables and sides of rice, yucca and other carbs are available at the corner buffet. Dinner is $34.95 per person. A potent caipirinha, made with cachaca (a Brazilian liquor distilled from sugarcane), sugar and lime wedges, is $10 a glass.

Espetus Churrascaria is at 1686 Market St., at Gough. Information: +1-415-552-8792; http://www.espetus.com .

German Beer Hall

The atmosphere at Suppenkuche starts with long communal wooden tables and carries on through large steins of beer and heaping platters of German food.

The appetizer plate ($13.50) was piled with salami, ham, sausage, meatballs and cheese; lentil soup ($5) was hearty.

Thick slices of venison stewed in wine ($18.50) arrived with red cabbage and spaetzle, as did the braised beef with cranberries ($17). Servings of grilled pork chop $14.50) or bratwurst ($13.50) came with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes.

The lengthy beer list includes brews by Franziskaner, Pilsner Urquell, Paulaner, Spaten and Leffe ($5/half liter)

Suppenkuche is at 525 Laguna St., at Hayes. Information: +1-415-252-9289; http://www.suppenkuche.com .

Sand Dabs

Opera singers and their backstage helpers often end up at the Hayes Street Grill. The bright room with high ceilings and signed photos of stage divinities is a block from the Opera House.

From the menu’s base of fresh market options, don’t miss the local sand dabs when they are on offer. The butternut squash soup with sage ($7) was unfussy and flavorful. The chopped salad ($8) nicely balanced a tart vinaigrette against greens, blue cheese, walnuts and sweet translucent beets.

The sauteed Bodega Bay Petrale sole’s exterior ($24.75) was light and crisp, with a white wine sauce that complemented the fish’s subtle flavor. The Gulf of Mexico Sierra whitefish ($19.75) was peppery on the outside, moist within. Crisp, addictive fries came in a paper-lined bowl, the way they’re served in Belgium.

Hayes Street Grill is at 320 Hayes St., near Franklin. Information: +1-415-863-5545; http://www.hayesstreetgrill.com .

Basement Cafe

Of course, you could just eat at the opera, in the basement cafe at the Opera House, managed by the Patina Group. The Caesar salad with chicken breast ($12) was fresh and tangy, while the California roll with Dungeness crab, avocado and caviar ($14) was surprisingly generous. A buffet table serves an extensive selection of salads. All desserts are $10.

Cafe at the Opera House is at 301 Van Ness Ave. Information: +1-415-861-8150.

The San Francisco Opera is at 301 Van Ness Ave. Information: +1-415-861-4008; http://www.sfopera.com .

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