The Errant Æsthete

Two-Fig Ice Cream

For the gastronomically challenged, the ultimate in autumnal aphrodisiacs — two-fig ice cream out of the pages of the incomparably de rigueur Chocolate & Zucchini. This recipe is a welcome assault to the senses from its brilliantly lovely pinkish purple color that, according to Clotilde, “you wouldn’t mind smearing all over your white shirt,” to the timely tip that a little alcohol helps ice cream remain soft. {Who knew?} Any of you familiar with Clotilde Dusoulier know of her culinary curiosity, enthusiasm and wonderful mélange of new creations and old favorites, and once you try her latest delicacy you, too, will count yourself among those who can serenade all night about the unctuosity and vividness of this ice cream. Bon Appetit!

The fig season seems intent on lasting forever this fall: it is now late October, yet produce stalls still boast plentiful trays of purple figs, soft at the hips and oft leaking a drop of sap from their, um, bottom. Of course, they cost an eye — figs are a luxury in Paris any time of the year — but the fig fanatic in me is willing to make any sort of monetary sacrifice to fuel my addiction.

But, lo and behold, my supermarket was offering an all-things-considered good price on Solliès figs the other day, and it was just the excuse I needed to make fig ice cream for a dinner party we were hosting.

Because I wasn’t entirely sure how my figs rated on the flavor scale — I tasted one and gave it a 6, but statisticians may agree that a sample of one fig isn’t enough to draw any sort of conclusion regarding the entire population — I decided to take an insurance policy by throwing in a few dried figs, to sustain the overall flavor.

Many a blogger has been heard raving about the fig ice cream in the ice cream guru’s book, and I myself used the recipe as a guide, modifying it to include dried figs, and use agave syrup as a sweetener, Greek-style yogurt in place of cream, and Limoncello instead of lemon juice*.

And well, you may now count me among those who can serenade all night about the unctuosity and vividness of this ice cream — a little bit like my neighbor from across the courtyard, who I wish would either shut her window or sing something other than Natalie Imbruglia every once in a while. Karaoke: it’s not for everyone.

And before we part, I will add this: when I first looked at the picture of this ice cream in David’s book, I knit my brow and puckered my lips into a dubitative pout (please take a moment to picture this). Could fig ice cream turn out this purple? But now that I’ve made it myself — and I promise I did not fiddle with the colors in the picture above — I’m here to tell you that, yes, fig ice cream can turn out this purple. Or more accurately in my case, pinkish purple, the kind of ice cream you wouldn’t mind smearing all over your white shirt, so lovely the color is.* David Lebovitz explains that a little alcohol helps ice cream remain soft.

Glace aux Deux Figues

- 100 grams (3 1/2 ounces) dried figs, about 4
- 900 grams (2 pounds) fresh and ripe purple figs, about 18 medium
- 1 organic lemon
- 70 grams (1/3 cup, packed) unrefined brown cane sugar (I used muscovado)
- 70 grams (1/4 cup) agave syrup (if unavailable, just use 140 grams or 2/3 cup cane sugar)
- 150 grams (5 fl.oz.) Greek-style yogurt
- 1 tablespoon Limoncello or lemon juice

Makes about 1 liter (1 quart).

Pre-freeze the bowl of your ice cream machine as instructed by the manufacturer.

Trim the tip of the dried figs’ stems. Place the dried figs in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Set aside to plump up for 15 minutes. Drain and quarter the dried figs.

Trim the tip of the fresh figs’ stems and cut the fruits into quarters. In a medium non-reactive saucepan, combine the fresh figs with 125 ml (1/2 cup) fresh water, and zest the lemon directly over the saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, cover, and cook for 6 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the dried figs and cook, covered, for another 3 minutes.

Add the sugar and agave syrup, stir to combine, and cook, uncovered, until the mixture thickens to a jam-like consistency, about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Let cool completely. (This can be prepared a day in advance. Cover and chill.)

Purée the fig mixture in a food processor until smooth. Add the yogurt and limoncello, and mix thoroughly. Taste and add a little more limoncello if desired. Chill thoroughly, and churn in your ice cream maker. Transfer to a freezer-friendly container, and apply a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the ice cream to prevent the formation of water crystals.